Your intuition that the learning rate related to the shape of the error gradient is correct when the loss is differentiable and convex in relation to its parameters (Theorem 6.1 https://www.stat.cmu.edu/~ryantibs/convexopt-F13/scribes/lec6.pdf).
Generally your loss is high dimensional in its parameter space and therefore non-convex. Moreover, the loss itself is convolutedusually Lipschitz continuous with a large constant $L$, which leads to the existence of not justonly local minima but also sharp and flat minima (Lipschitz continuous with a very large constant $L$).
Choosing a learning rate therefore is difficult because itthen necessarily depends on both $L$ and the initialization. You could haveFor a very large $L$, you could still converge with a very large learning rate (as opposed to the convex case), as long as the initialization is inwithin a neighbor of a near-optimumdecent flat minima.